The village-like streets of the Butte-aux-Cailles, 13th arrondissement of Paris
75013 · The 13th arrondissement of Paris

The other
side of Paris

A hilltop village of bars and murals, Europe's largest Chinatown, walls turned into an open-air gallery and four glass towers shaped like open books — the 13th is the city most visitors never see.

Photo: the Butte-aux-Cailles · Wikimedia Commons
Things to do

Tickets & experiences in the 13th

Street-art safaris, a village-and-bar crawl, a deep dive into Asian Paris and a historic tapestry works — the 13th rewards the curious. A hand-picked selection, most with free cancellation.

★ Local favourite

Street-art walking tour

Decode the monumental murals of Boulevard Vincent-Auriol and the lanes of the Butte-aux-Cailles with a guide who knows the artists and their stories.

from €35Book now
Food

Chinatown food tour

Taste your way through Europe's largest Asian quarter — dumplings, pho, bubble tea and bakeries around avenues de Choisy and d'Ivry with a local foodie.

from €45Book now
Village life

Butte-aux-Cailles bar crawl

Hop between the cooperative bistros and lively bars of the hilltop village with a small group — the convivial heart of local nightlife.

from €39Book now
Heritage

Manufacture des Gobelins

Tour the royal tapestry works that have woven masterpieces since the 17th century — the workshops that gave the neighbourhood its name.

from €15Book now
Architecture

BnF & Paris Rive Gauche

Discover Dominique Perrault's four open-book towers, the hidden forest at their heart and the bold riverside district rising around them.

from €12Book now
On the Seine

Seine cruise from the east

Glide past the BnF, the floating Joséphine-Baker pool and Bercy on a sightseeing cruise along the city's quieter, modern eastern reach.

from €18Book now
Discover

A patchwork of worlds

No two streets of the 13th feel alike. A hilltop village, an Asian metropolis, a riverside of glass towers and a boulevard of giant murals all sit within a few metro stops — this is Paris at its most unexpected and most alive.

The Butte-aux-Cailles

A hilltop village of cobbled lanes, low houses, bars and street art — once a workers' quarter, now the festive, bohemian heart of the arrondissement.

Chinatown & the Olympiades

Europe's largest Asian quarter fills the 'triangle de Choisy', beneath the modernist Olympiades towers — supermarkets, restaurants and a famous New Year parade.

Open-air street art

Boulevard Vincent-Auriol — the 'Champs-Élysées of street art' — and the Galerie Itinerrance have turned blank façades into monumental murals.

The BnF François-Mitterrand

Four glass towers shaped like open books rise over the Seine around a sunken forest — Dominique Perrault's bold 1996 landmark, anchor of Paris Rive Gauche.

The Manufacture des Gobelins

The royal tapestry works, weaving masterpieces since the 1600s — and the source of the 'Gobelins' name that locals give this whole corner of Paris.

Place d'Italie

The great roundabout at the heart of the 13th, ringed by the town hall, a grand cinema and shopping — the gateway between its very different villages.

Where to eat & drink

Tables of the 13th

From a Basque institution on the Butte to a steaming bowl of pho in Chinatown, the 13th is one of the best-value, most varied places to eat in Paris.

Basque · Institution

Chez Gladines

30 Rue des Cinq-Diamants

A Butte-aux-Cailles institution: generous Basque and southwest plates, heaped salads and a buzzing, no-frills atmosphere at gentle prices. Expect a queue.

€€
Cooperative bistro

Le Temps des Cerises

18-20 Rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles

A worker-run cooperative bistro on the village's main street — hearty French cooking, a warm room and a slice of the Butte's independent spirit.

€€
Asian · Cantonese · Thai

Tricotin

15 Avenue de Choisy

A Chinatown landmark near Porte de Choisy — vast menu of dim sum, roast meats and noodle soups, fast and authentic. A local rite of passage.

€€
Vietnamese · Pho

Pho 14

129 Avenue de Choisy

Famous for some of the best pho in Paris — fragrant beef broth, generous bowls and a permanent queue out the door. Cash-friendly and quick.

Tea room · Brunch

L'Oisive Thé

1 Rue Jean-Marie Jégo

A cosy Butte-aux-Cailles tea room with dozens of loose-leaf teas, weekend brunch and a knitting-friendly vibe — a gentle pause off the bar circuit.

€€
Bar-boat · Seine

La Dame de Canton

Port de la Gare (by the BnF)

A Chinese junk moored on the Seine below the BnF — a bar and gig venue under the rigging, for a drink and live music on the water.

€€
Tourist guide

Must-see places in the 13th arrondissement

A village, a Chinatown, a cathedral of books and a wall of murals — the landmarks that make the 13th unlike anywhere else in Paris.

Neighbourhood · Free

Butte-aux-Cailles

A hilltop village of cobbled streets, bars, bistros and street art around Rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles and Rue des Cinq-Diamants. Best explored on foot.

Pool · Art Deco

Piscine de la Butte-aux-Cailles

A listed 1920s Art Deco swimming pool fed by a natural artesian spring — an outdoor basin and brick-vaulted indoor hall, beloved by locals.

District · Free

Chinatown / Quartier asiatique

The largest Asian quarter in Europe, around avenues de Choisy and d'Ivry and the Olympiades — supermarkets, restaurants and the New Year parade.

Library · Architecture

BnF François-Mitterrand

The national library's four open-book glass towers around a sunken forest, by Dominique Perrault (1996) — exhibitions, reading rooms and a belvedere.

Heritage · Tickets

Manufacture des Gobelins

The royal tapestry works, weaving since the 17th century, with a gallery and guided tours of the looms. The namesake of the Gobelins quarter.

Riverside · Free

Les Docks & Paris Rive Gauche

The lime-green Cité de la Mode et du Design on the Seine, the floating Joséphine-Baker pool and the modern riverside quarter rising around the BnF.

Before you go

Weather in the 13th arrondissement

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Paris 75013
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Get your bearings

The 75013 (13th arrondissement) on the map

Every village street, mural, market and table of the 13th on one interactive map. Filter by category, or click a place to locate it and open its links.

Map © Leaflet · © OpenStreetMap contributors · © CARTO
Orientation

Understanding Paris & its transport

Paris is divided into 20 arrondissements that spiral outward clockwise from the centre, like a snail. The 13th is the south-eastern corner of the Left Bank, running from the Manufacture des Gobelins and Place d'Italie down to the Seine and the BnF.

It's a big, contrast-filled arrondissement — a hilltop village, a Chinatown and a modern riverfront — but Place d'Italie and metro line 14 connect it quickly to the rest of the city.

Since 2025 the system has been simplified: paper tickets are gone, replaced by the contactless Navigo Easy card or your phone. A single Métro/RER ticket is now a flat fare, and a day pass quickly pays for itself if you ride often.

For door-to-door directions, the Bonjour RATP and Citymapper apps are the most reliable companions.

Métro / RER single€2.55
Bus / tram single€2.05
Day pass (unlimited)€12.30
Navigo Week pass~€31
Airport ticket (CDG/Orly)€14
Navigo Easy card€2 (reusable)
Getting around

How to reach the 13th arrondissement

Place d'Italie is the hub, with the driverless line 14 and RER C linking the riverside library district to the rest of Paris. Here are the essentials.

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By metro

  • 567 Place d'Italie Main hub
  • 6 Corvisart Butte-aux-Cailles
  • 14 Olympiades Chinatown
  • 14 Bibliothèque F.-M. BnF & RER C
🚆

Hubs & RER

  • Bibliothèque F.-Mitterrand RER C · 14
  • Gare d'Austerlitz RER C · mainline (5e edge)
  • Place d'Italie 567
  • Tolbiac 7 · Butte-aux-Cailles
✈️

From the airports

  • Orly tram T9 / RER, ~35 min
  • Roissy–Charles de Gaulle RER B + 6, ~55 min
  • Le Bourget ~45 min
  • Beauvais 1h20–1h35

The Paris Métro at a glance

One of the world's densest networks — 16 lines, over 300 stations, a train every 2–4 minutes. You're never far from a station.
1 2 3 3b 4 5 6 7 7b 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
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Colour & number coded. Each line has a unique number and colour. Follow the line colour and the name of the terminus in your direction — that's how platforms are signposted.
⏱️
Frequent. Trains run roughly every 2 minutes at peak and 4–8 minutes off-peak, from ~5:30 am to ~1:15 am (2:15 am Fri–Sat).
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Free transfers. Change lines as often as you like within the métro/RER on a single ticket, valid up to 2 hours, as long as you don't exit the gates.
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Line 14. The fully automated line 14 serves Olympiades and the BnF — the fastest way to reach the 13th from the centre.
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For the 13th: Place d'Italie (5, 6, 7) is the hub; Corvisart and Tolbiac the Butte; Olympiades the Chinatown; Bibliothèque F.-M. the riverside.
📱
Apps. Bonjour RATP and Citymapper give live routes, platform exits and disruptions — far easier than paper maps.
Tickets: the paper ticket is gone — load journeys onto a contactless Navigo Easy card (€2) or your phone.
Walk the Butte: its lanes are steep and cobbled — comfortable shoes beat the metro for exploring the village itself.
Good to know

Frequently asked questions

What is there to see in the 13th arrondissement (75013)?
The 13th is the most surprising corner of Paris: the village-like Butte-aux-Cailles with its Art Deco hot-spring pool, Europe's largest Chinatown around the Olympiades, the monumental street art of Boulevard Vincent-Auriol, the four open-book towers of the BnF François-Mitterrand, the historic Manufacture des Gobelins and the lively Place d'Italie.
Where is the street art in the 13th arrondissement?
Monumental murals line Boulevard Vincent-Auriol — nicknamed the 'Champs-Élysées of street art' — and the streets around the Nationale metro, driven by the Galerie Itinerrance and the Street Art 13 programme. More intimate stencils and paste-ups (Miss.Tic, Jef Aérosol) dot the lanes of the Butte-aux-Cailles, and Les Frigos hosts dozens of artist studios.
What is the Butte-aux-Cailles?
A hilltop neighbourhood that feels like a provincial village dropped into Paris: cobbled, low-rise streets full of bars, bistros and street art around Rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles and Rue des Cinq-Diamants. Don't miss its 1920s Art Deco swimming pool, fed by a natural artesian spring.
Where is Paris's Chinatown?
Paris's main Chinatown — the largest Asian quarter in Europe — fills the 'triangle de Choisy' in the south of the 13th, around avenues de Choisy and d'Ivry and the Olympiades towers. It's packed with Asian supermarkets, restaurants and bakeries, and bursts into life for the Chinese New Year parade.
How do I get to the 13th arrondissement?
Place d'Italie (metro lines 5, 6 and 7) is the hub; Corvisart (6) and Tolbiac (7) serve the Butte-aux-Cailles, Olympiades (14) the Chinatown, and Bibliothèque François-Mitterrand (14 and RER C) the riverside library district and Paris Rive Gauche.
Before you go

Plan your stay

A few practical essentials to make your visit to the 13th arrondissement smooth and stress-free.

🗓️

Best time to visit

The Butte-aux-Cailles is loveliest in spring and on warm evenings when terraces fill up. For Chinatown, time your trip with the Chinese New Year parade (late January or February) for the full spectacle.

🎨

See the street art right

Walk Boulevard Vincent-Auriol on foot, and look up — many murals cover whole buildings. Line 6 runs overground here, so the metro itself offers great mural views.

💶

Money & tipping

Cards are accepted almost everywhere; some Chinatown spots and small bars prefer cash. Service is included by law; rounding up for great service is appreciated, never expected.

🥢

Eat like a local

Pho, dim sum and bubble tea in Chinatown; hearty Basque and bistro fare on the Butte. Both are excellent value — and the queues usually mean it's worth it.

🕒

Opening hours

Many Butte shops close Sunday and Monday; the swimming pool and Manufacture des Gobelins keep set hours — check before you go. Chinatown restaurants run late.

🚶

Wander off-piste

The magic of the 13th is in its side streets — Petite Alsace, the Cité Florale and the Bièvre's bronze pavement plaques reward the curious wanderer.

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Explore the 20 arrondissements of Paris

Each Paris arrondissement has its own guide. Hover the map to reveal a district's name, then click to open its dedicated site — you are currently in the 13th.

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